02
I landed in Kathmandu, Nepal in August 2016, where I spent three weeks visiting historic Buddhist sites, monkey temples, and the world’s most astounding mountain range, the Himalayas. I then moved eastward, into China, where I marveled at the Stone Forest in Kunming. The trees of limestone had an enigmatic effect, standing mesmerizingly in the pillared forest. I climbed Victoria Peak (“The Peak”) and soaked up the beauty of Hong Kong’s skyline. I drank black tea in a Shanghai Pagoda and got lost in Beijing’s underground subways. From there I took Korean Air and landed in Seoul.
My initial impression of Seoul was that it was dense. It had a density of people, a density of concrete in its urban areas, and a density of plants in its forested areas. Even the Taebaek Mountains in the distance jutted out like a dense village of pyramids. Perhaps this is an exaggerated opinion because Calgary has one of the lowest scales of density in the world, but this is what I observed. Perhaps it seemed so dense because the buildings were so tall and tightly jammed. Erectly they stood like hairs on a bristle hairbrush.
When I was in Kathmandu, I met a South Korean guy a few years older than myself at the hostel where I stayed. His name was Sooncheon Park and he spoke about Seoul with an arrogant sort of pride, referring to it as the “Soul of the Earth”, and, “the eternal city”. It was clear how much he loved Seoul, so it shouldn’t come as a surprise that when I told him Seoul was in my travel plans his eyes glistened; his excitement unrestrained. He offered to let me stay at his apatu, insisting he show me the “wonders of Asia” when I arrived. I decided to take Sooncheon up on his offer, jumping on the opportunity to stay with a local.
When I landed, Sooncheon greeted me with a sign that said, “S. Korea ♥ Canada: Welcome Jonah!” When I saw this, I tilted my head down, trying to cover the pride I felt. I walked over to Sooncheon and outstretched my hand for a handshake, only for him to dismiss the gesture completely, rejecting my hand and embracing me in a tight hug instead. He wore a puffy red jacket with a lightly tinged plain yellow tee underneath and black track pants. His face was pale, adorned with thick black full-rimmed glasses and a slick comb over. He reminded me of an oversized South Korean Olympic speedskater, the kind you see on TV in big black goggles that sneak up from behind and win gold.
As a Canadian, I always feel ashamedly privileged when I travel. One, because I simply can travel, and two because wherever I go, the locals where I am adjust to my language, not the other way around. Sooncheon wasn’t a perfect English speaker and had a clear South Korean accent when he spoke, but spoke well enough to understand and carry a decent conversation.
“Chingu! So good to see you again my chingu! How were your travels?”
It had only been a few weeks since I had seen him.
“Good to see you too, Sooncheon. Thank you for welcoming me. My travels have been rewarding, but I am looking forward to seeing Seoul!”
Sooncheon’s face cracked its mold as his lips curved into a big smile at my comment.
“Seoul will not let you down… because I will not let you down.” Sooncheon’s smile grew wider as he gulped a deep breath of air after the comment. A weird energy filled the air and an indescribable force compelled me to match his gesture. He continued his warm hospitality by taking my backpack and carrying it out to his vehicle. On the way to the apatu, I took in Seoul from the passenger window and formed unique South Korean distinctions in my mind—the dedicated bus lanes, the remarkable cleanliness of the city streets. When we arrived at his apatu, I rested for some time, looking at Seoul from the high view on the balcony. The red and white striped Seoul Tower peeked over near buildings. There was a kind of stillness to the outside that I could sense. Even though it was covered with animated features, building edges, spiny hills, and moving objects, it had a sort of slow presence about it.
“Makgeolli?”
“Jonah, I said would you like some makgeolli?”
It took me a moment to realize Sooncheon was speaking to me.
“What’s makgeolli?”
“Makgeolli is a wine made from fermented rice. It is a South Korean invention. Would you like to try?”In Nepal, I had offered ice wine to fellow travelers, a signature Canadian wine. Perhaps Soocheon felt he had a debt to repay? He stood over me with a small handle-less cup filled with the drink.
“Thanks.”
I took a sip. Makgeolli had a unique taste. It had a mix of flavours—sour, sweet, even bitter, all of which were clearly detectable but not overpowering, as if the drink had some type of identity confusion.
“So two days you have. Is there anything specific you’d like to see in Seoul?”
Sooncheon guzzled his cup down quickly. I wondered if it was custom to finish fast so mimicked the action, crinkling my nose at the poignancy of it. “Any hiking here?” I strained myself against showing the distastefulness I experienced, only to encounter Sooncheon pouring me another full helping. The heat from the drink spread through my body like a tiny wave.
“Seoul has the best hikes in the world,” Sooncheon replied, before continuing, “but not easy. If you want to hike, we go early in morning so there is still time to see the city. Seoul has beauty inside, you’ll see.”
Sooncheon downed the second cup with the same rapidity as the first. I willed myself to match him out of courteousness but gave up halfway through. A chalky taste filled my mouth, like tiny grains of dirt had drifted out from between my teeth and spread around.
“Hurry up and finish. Gyeongbokgoong will close soon.”
Sooncheon drank the rest of the makgeolli straight from the teapot. I guessed that the act of drinking makgeolli that quickly was in fact, not customary.
“Would it be okay if I took a rest, Sooncheon? I feel exhausted from my travels.”
At this, Sooncheon let out a deep laugh. Stretch lines displayed themselves across his face while at the same time his puffy red jacket fell over the sides of his abdomen.
“Ha! Good one, Jonah! Canadians are funny, ‘should I rest’? First time in Seoul and a rest!”
Sooncheon laughed for a short time more before taking the rest of my makgeolli and swallowing it all in one giant, expressive gulp. I laughed along, pretending.